HOLY RIVER GANGA
Ganges River, great river of the plains of the northern Indian subcontinent. Although officially as well as popularly called the Ganga in Hindi and in other Indian languages, internationally it is known by its conventional name, the Ganges. From time immemorial it has been the holy river of Hinduism. For most of its course it is a wide and sluggish stream, flowing through one of the most fertile and densely populated regions in the world. Despite its importance, its length of 1,560 miles (2,510 km) is relatively short compared with the other great rivers of Asia or of the world.
Rising in the Himalayas and emptying into the Bay of Bengal, it drains one-fourth of the territory of India, and its basin supports hundreds of millions of people. The greater part of the Indo-Gangetic Plain, across which it flows, is the heartland of the region known as Hindustan and has been the cradle of successive civilizations from the Mauryan empireof Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE to the Mughal Empire, founded in the 16th century.
For most of its course the Ganges flows through Indian territory, although its large delta in the Bengal area, which it shares with the Brahmaputra River, lies mostly in Bangladesh. The general direction of the river’s flow is from northwest to southeast. At its delta the flow is generally southward.
The Ganges rises in the southern Great Himalayas on the Indian side of the border with the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Its five headstreams—the Bhagirathi, the Alaknanda, the Mandakini, the Dhauliganga, and the Pindar—all rise in the mountainous region of northern Uttarakhand state. Of those, the two main headstreams are the Alaknanda (the longer of the two), which rises about 30 miles (50 km) north of the Himalayan peak of Nanda Devi, and the Bhagirathi, which originates at about 10,000 feet (3,000 metres) above sea level in a subglacial meltwater cave at the base of the Himalayan glacier known as Gangotri. Gangotri itself is a sacred place for Hindu pilgrimage. The true source of the Ganges, however, is considered to be at Gaumukh, about 13 miles (21 km) southeast of Gangotri.
The Alaknanda and Bhagirathi rivers unite at Devaprayag to form the main stream known as the Ganga, which cuts southwestward through the Siwalik Range (Outer Himalayas) at the northern edge of the Indo-Gangetic Plain to emerge from the mountains at Rishikesh. It then flows onto the plain at Haridwar, another place held sacred by Hindus.
The volume of the Ganges increases markedly as it receives more tributaries and enters a region of heavier rainfall, and it shows a marked seasonal variation in flow. From April to June the melting Himalayan snows feed the river, and in the rainy season, from July to September, the rain-bearing monsoons cause floods. During winter the river’s flow declines. South of Haridwar, now within the state of Uttar Pradesh, the river receives its two principal right-bank tributaries: the Yamuna River, which flows through the Delhi capital region and then roughly parallels the southeastward flow of the Ganges before joining it near Allahabad, and the Tons, which flows north from the Vindhya Range in Madhya Pradesh state and joins the Ganges just below Allahabad. The main left-bank tributaries in Uttar Pradesh are the Ramganga, the Gomati, and the Ghaghara.
The Ganges next enters the state of Bihar, where its main tributaries from the Himalayan region of Nepal to the north are the Gandak, the Burhi (“Old”) Gandak, the Ghugri, and the Kosi rivers. Its most-important southern tributary is the Son River. The river then skirts the Rajmahal Hills to the south and flows southeast to Farakka in central West Bengal state, at the apex of the delta. West Bengal is the last Indian state that the Ganges enters, and, after it flows into Bangladesh, the Mahananda River joins it from the north. In West Bengal in India, as well as in Bangladesh, the Ganges is locally called the Padma. The westernmost distributaries of the delta are the Bhagirathi and the Hugli (Hooghly)rivers, on the east bank of which stands the huge metropolis of Kolkata(Calcutta). The Hugli itself is joined by two tributaries flowing in from the west, the Damodar and the Rupnarayan. As the Ganges passes from West Bengal into Bangladesh, a number of distributaries branch off to the south into the river’s vast delta. In Bangladesh the Ganges is joined by the mighty Brahmaputra (which is called the Jamuna in Bangladesh) near Goalundo Ghat. The combined stream, there called the Padma, joins with the Meghna River above Chandpur. The waters then flow through the delta region to the Bay of Bengal via innumerable channels, the largest of which is known as the Meghna estuary.
The Ganges-Brahmaputra system has the third greatest average discharge of the world’s rivers, at roughly 1,086,500 cubic feet (30,770 cubic metres) per second; approximately 390,000 cubic feet (11,000 cubic metres) per second is supplied by the Ganges alone. The rivers’ combined suspended sediment load of about 1.84 billion tons per year is the world’s highest.
Dhaka (Dacca), the capital of Bangladesh, stands on the Buriganga (“Old Ganges”), a tributary of the Dhaleswari. Apart from the Hugli and the Meghna, the other distributary streams that form the Ganges delta are, in West Bengal, the Jalangi River and, in Bangladesh, the Matabhanga, Bhairab, Kabadak, Garai-Madhumati, and Arial Khan rivers.
The Ganges, as well as its tributaries and distributaries, is constantly vulnerable to changes in its course in the delta region. Such changes have occurred in comparatively recent times, especially since 1750. In 1785 the Brahmaputra flowed past the city of Mymensingh; it now flows more than 40 miles (65 km) west of it before joining the Ganges
The southern surface of the Ganges delta has been formed by the rapid and comparatively recent deposition of enormous loads of sediment. To the east the seaward side of the delta is being changed at a rapid rate by the formation of new lands, known as chars, and new islands. The western coastline of the delta, however, has remained practically unchanged since the 18th century.
The rivers in the West Bengal area are sluggish; little water passes down them to the sea. In the Bangladeshi delta region, the rivers are broad and active, carrying plentiful water and connected by innumerable creeks. During the rains (June to October) the greater part of the region is flooded to a depth of 3 or more feet (at least 1 metre), leaving the villages and homesteads, which are built on artificially raised land, isolated above the floodwaters. Communication between settlements during that season can be accomplished only by boat.
To the seaward side of the delta as a whole, there is a vast stretch of tidal mangrove forests and swampland. The region, called the Sundarbans, is protected by India and Bangladesh for conservation purposes. Each country’s portion of the Sundarbans has been designated a UNESCOWorld Heritage site, India’s in 1987 and Bangladesh’s in 1997.
In certain parts of the delta there occur layers of peat, composed of the remains of forest vegetation and rice plants. In many natural depressions, known as bils, peat, still in the process of formation, has been used as a fertilizer by local farmers, and it has been dried and used as a domestic and industrial fuel.
The Ganges basin encompasses some 419,300 square miles (1,086,000 square km) and contains the largest river system on the subcontinent. The water supply depends partly on the rains brought by the southwesterly monsoon winds from July to October as well as on the flow from melting Himalayan snows in the hot season from April to June. Precipitation in the river basin accompanies the southwest monsoon winds, but it also comes with tropical cyclones that originate in the Bay of Bengal between June and October. Only a small amount of rainfall occurs in December and January. The average annual rainfall varies from 30 inches (760 mm) at the western end of the basin to more than 90 inches (2,290 mm) at the eastern end. (In the upper Gangetic Plain in Uttar Pradesh, rainfall averages about 30–40 inches [760–1,020 mm]; in the Middle Ganges Plain of Bihar, from 40 to 60 inches [1,020 to 1,520 mm]; and in the delta region, between 60 and 100 inches [1,520 and 2,540 mm].) The delta region experiences strong cyclonic storms both before the commencement of the monsoon season, from March to May, and at the end of it, from September to October. Some of those storms result in much loss of life and the destruction of homes, crops, and livestock. One such storm, which occurred in November 1970, was of catastrophic proportions, resulting in deaths of at least 200,000 and possibly as many as 500,000 people; another, in April 1991, killed some 140,000.
Since there is little variation in relief over the entire surface of the Gangetic Plain, the river’s rate of flow is slow. Between the Yamuna River at Delhi and the Bay of Bengal, a distance of nearly 1,000 miles (1,600 km), the elevation drops only some 700 feet (210 metres). Altogether the Ganges-Brahmaputra plains extend over an area of 300,000 square miles (800,000 square km). The alluvial mantle of the plain, which in some places is more than 6,000 feet (1,800 metres) thick, is possibly not more than 10,000 years old.
Ethnically, the people of the Ganges basin are of mixed origin. In the west and centre of the basin they were originally descended from an early population—possibly speaking Dravidian or Austroasiatic languages—and were later joined by speakers of Indo-Aryan languages. In historical times Turks, Mongols, Afghans, Persians, and Arabs came from the west and intermingled with them. To the east and south, especially in Bengal, peoples speaking Austroasiatic, Indo-Aryan, and Tibeto-Burman languages have joined the population over the centuries. Europeans, arriving still later, did not settle or intermarry to any large extent.
Historically the Gangetic Plain has constituted the heartland of Hindustan and its successive civilizations. The centre of the Mauryan empire of Ashoka was Patna (ancient Pataliputra), on the Ganges in Bihar. The centres of the great Mughal Empire were at Delhi and Agra, in the western Ganges basin. Kannauj on the Ganges, in central Uttar Pradesh north of Kanpur, was the capital of the feudal empire of Harsha, which covered most of northern India in the mid-7th century. During the Muslim era, which began in the 12th century, Muslim rule extended not only over the plain but over all Bengal as well. Dhaka and Murshidabadin the delta region were centres of Muslim power. The British, having founded Calcutta (Kolkata) on the banks of the Hugli River in the late 17th century, gradually expanded their dominion up the valley of the Ganges, reaching Delhi in the mid-19th century.
A large number of cities have been built on the Gangetic Plain. Among the most notable are Saharanpur, Meerut, Agra (the city of the famous Taj Mahal mausoleum), Mathura (esteemed as the birthplace of the Hindu god Krishna), Aligarh, Kanpur, Bareilly, Lucknow, Allahabad, Varanasi (Benares or Kashi; the holy city of the Hindus), Patna, Bhagalpur, Rajshahi, Murshidabad, Kolkata, Haora (Howrah), Dhaka, Khulna, and Barisal.
In the delta Kolkata and its satellite towns stretch for about 50 miles (80 km) along both banks of the Hugli, forming one of India’s most-important concentrations of population, commerce, and industry.
The religious importance of the Ganges may exceed that of any other river in the world. It has been revered from the earliest times and today is regarded as the holiest of rivers by Hindus. While places of Hindu pilgrimage, called tirthas, are located throughout the subcontinent, those that are situated on the Ganges have particular significance. Among those are the confluence of the Ganges and the Yamuna near Allahabad, where a bathing festival, or mela, is held in January and February; during the ceremony hundreds of thousands of pilgrims immerse themselves in the river. Other holy places for immersion are at Varanasi and at Haridwar. The Hugli River at Kolkata also is regarded as holy.
Other places of pilgrimage on the Ganges include Gangotri and the junction of the Alaknanda and Bhagirathi headstreams in the Himalayas. The Hindus cast the ashes of their dead into the river, believing that this gives the deceased direct passage to heaven, and cremation ghats (temples at the summit of riverside steps) for burning the dead have been built in many places on the banks of the Ganges.
Plant and animal life
The Ganges-Yamuna area was once densely forested. Historical writings indicate that in the 16th and 17th centuries wild elephants, buffalo, bison, rhinoceroses, lions, and tigers were hunted there. Most of the original natural vegetation has disappeared from the Ganges basin, and the land is now intensely cultivated to meet the needs of an ever-growing population. Large wild animals are few, except for deer, boars, and wildcats and some wolves, jackals, and foxes. Only in the Sundarbans area of the delta are some Bengal tigers, crocodiles, and marsh deer still found.
Fish abound in all the rivers, especially in the delta area, where they form an important part of the inhabitants’ diet. In the Bengal area common fish include featherbacks (Notopteridae family), barbs (Cyprinidae), walking catfish, gouramis (Anabantidae), and milkfish (Chanidae). The Ganges river dolphin—or susu (Platanista gangetica), a nearly sightless cetacean with highly developed sonar capabilities—can be found throughout the Ganges-Brahmaputra basin, but it is considered endangered because of encroaching human activity. Many varieties of birds are found, such as mynah birds, parrots, crows, kites, partridges, and fowls. In winter, ducks and snipes migrate south across the high Himalayas, settling in large numbers in water-covered areas.
Use of the Ganges water for irrigation, either when the river is in flood or by means of gravity canals, has been common since ancient times. Such irrigation is described in scriptures and mythological books written more than 2,000 years ago. Megasthenes, a Greek historian and ambassador who was in India, recorded the use of irrigation in the 4th century BCE. Irrigation was highly developed during the period of Muslim rule from the 12th century onward, and the Mughal kings later constructed several canals. The canal system was further extended by the British.
The cultivated area of the Ganges valley in Uttar Pradesh and Bihar benefits from a system of irrigation canals that has increased the production of such cash crops as sugarcane, cotton, and oilseeds. The older canals are mainly in the Ganges-Yamuna Doab (doab meaning “land between two rivers”). The Upper Ganga Canal, which begins at Hardiwar, and its branches have a combined length of 5,950 miles (9,575 km). The Lower Ganga Canal, extending 5,120 miles (8,240 km) with its branches, begins at Naraura. The Sarda Canal irrigates land near Ayodhya, in Uttar Pradesh.
Higher lands at the northern edge of the plain are difficult to irrigate by canal, and groundwater must be pumped to the surface. Large areas in Uttar Pradesh and in Bihar are also irrigated by channels running from hand-dug wells.The Ganges-Kabadak scheme in Bangladesh, largely an irrigation plan, covers parts of the districts of Khulna, Jessore, and Kushtia that lie within the part of the delta where silt and overgrowth choke the slowly flowing rivers. The system of irrigation is based on both gravity canals and electrically powered lifting devices.
The hydroelectric potential of the Ganges and its tributaries is enormous—estimates have ranged from some 51,700 to 128,700 megawatts—of which about two-fifths lies within India and the rest in Nepal. Some of that potential has been exploited in India, including hydroelectric developments on headwater tributaries of the Ganges in Uttarakhand (e.g., the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers), on the upper Yamuna River and its tributaries in Himachal Pradesh, and, farther downstream, in the Ganges basin along the Chambal (a right-bank tributary of the Yamuna) and Rihand rivers. Only a tiny fraction of Nepal’s hydroelectric generating capacity has been exploited.
In ancient times the Ganges and some of its tributaries, especially in the east, were important transportation routes. According to Megasthenes, the Ganges and its main tributaries were being navigated in the 4th century BCE. In the 14th century, inland-river navigation in the Ganges basin was still flourishing. By the 19th century, irrigation-cum-navigation canals formed the main arteries of the water-transport system. The advent of paddle steamers revolutionized inland transport, stimulating the growth of indigo production in Bihar and Bengal. Regular steamer services ran from Kolkata up the Ganges to Allahabad and far beyond, as well as to Agra on the Yamuna and up the Brahmaputra River.
The decline of large-scale water transport began with the construction of railways during the mid-19th century. The increasing withdrawal of water for irrigation also affected navigation. River traffic now is insignificant beyond the middle Ganges basin around Allahabad, mainly consisting of rural rivercraft (including motorboats, sailboats, and rafts).
West Bengal and Bangladesh, however, continue to rely on the waterways to transport jute, tea, grain, and other agricultural and rural products. Principal river ports are Chalna, Khulna, Barisal, Chandpur, Narayanganj, Goalundo Ghat, Sirajganj, Bhairab Bazar, and Fenchuganj in Bangladesh and Kolkata, Goalpara, Dhuburi, and Dibrugarh in India. The partition of British India into India and Pakistan in 1947—with eastern Bengal becoming East Pakistan until in 1971 it declared its independence as Bangladesh—produced far-reaching changes, virtually halting the large trade in tea and jute formerly carried to Kolkata from Assam by inland waterway.
In Bangladesh inland water transport is the responsibility of the Bangladesh Inland Water Transport Authority. In India the Inland Waterways Authority of India formulates policy for and develops and maintains an extensive system of national waterways, while the publicly owned Central Inland Water Transport Corporation, Ltd., is responsible for transporting cargo in the waterway system and maintains the transport vessels as well as the facilities at several ports. Approximately 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of waterways in the Ganges basin from Allahabad to Haldia are included in the system.
The Farakka Barrage at the head of the delta, just inside Indian territory in West Bengal, began diverting Ganges waters south into India in 1976. The Indian government argued that hydrological changes had diverted Ganges water from the port of Kolkata over the preceding century and resulted in the deposition of silt and the intrusion of saline seawater. India constructed the dam to ameliorate the condition of Kolkata by flushing away the seawater and raising the water level. The Bangladeshi government maintained that the Farakka Barrage deprived southwestern Bangladesh of a needed source of water. In 1996 both countries signed an agreement resolving the dispute by apportioning the waters of the Ganges between the two countries. Catastrophic floods in Bangladesh in 1987 and 1988—the latter being among the most severe in the country’s history—prompted the World Bank to prepare a long-term flood-control plan for the region.
Coordinated efforts to clean up the river began in 1986 with the establishment of the Ganga Action Plan (GAP) agency by Indian Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi. Although the agency did initiate and complete a number of projects aimed at reducing pollution levels, its efforts were generally deemed inadequate and failures. In 2009 a new government organization, the National Ganga River Basin Authority (NGRBA), was launched as a successor to the GAP. The NGRBA also faced criticism for inaction in its early years of existence.
Of greater concern, however, has been the degradation in quality of the river water itself. The Ganges basin is one of the most intensely inhabited regions on earth, home to hundreds of millions of people, with the result that the river’s water over much of its course is highly polluted. Scores of cities and towns dump untreated sewage into the river and its main tributaries, and dozens of manufacturing facilities contribute industrial waste. Also contributing to high pollution levels are agricultural runoff, the remnants of partially burned or unburned bodies from funeral pyres, and animal carcasses. High levels of disease-causing bacteria, as well as such toxic substances as chromium, cadmium, and arsenic, have been found in the Ganges.
Concern has grown over the environmental impact of hydroelectric dams, including habitat destruction for wildlife (terrestrial and aquatic), forced relocation of people living in the paths of dams and reservoirs, loss of agricultural land, and disruption of water supplies for inhabitants near the completed dams. Some have called for reductions in the amount of power generated, redesigning dams to make them and their impounded reservoirs less intrusive, and even moratoriums on future dam construction in some areas.